Wherever you go, go with all your heart...

Tuesday, May 24, 2016

Hiraeth

As I skyped with my mom on Friday, prior to leaving for Albania, I told her I was nervous it would make me long for the life, and friends  I had there. I was terrified  it would be unrecognizable. In many ways it reached those expectations. But I also took her advice and used it as a chance to reflect on, and be grateful, to the city and people who shaped a good portion of who I am.

My 2 days in Tirana were just what they should have been. A Saturday stroll, a failed attempt at a night out, a Sunday drinking bender, and a Monday morning reflection.

As we hit the southern part of Montenegro I started to translate words, and I have no doubt that the crew I was with was so tired of hearing me point out buildings, or words, or random cultural things I had forgotten about. From hanging stuffed animals to ward of evil spirits, to New York license plates.

We passed my old school, now painted a creepy shade of yellow, a college, and seriously unrecognizable. I kept questioning myself. "That's my old school...wait...not it's not, huh? Oh yes, that was it because this is where I nearly died everyday on my way there."
Home
Then as we cruised down Rruga Durresit I started to see some places I knew. The place with the best chocolate croissants, late night pizza, the first place I had a doner with Scott. It was like a flood as I tried to work out what had changed and what remained. I really struggled with the insane number of fancy to-go coffee places, as Tirana already had too many cafes. The first fancy one had just opened before I left and was now a chain of at least 15 with 2 other competing companies.
Typical Breakfast with Scott before explorations
Once we got into the city and dealt with out random hostel issues (I stayed at the one where my friend used to work, oddly enough) we went to Stephen Center for a meal and I indulged in a Dr. Pepper. Same menu, same market view, same delicious food. Next up was a walk. We began with the Pyramid, now striped bare of it's colour and far more ugly than it used to be. Then I took the crew down the shopping road, remembering my exchange place, my grocery shop, my favourite gelato man, and the constant admiration I had for the wedding dress shops that line the area with the world's worst poof.

As we turned down my alley, Jen commented on how nice the cafe on the corner (where my dumpster used to stand tall) looked. I pointed out my stairs and the gang decided that I lived in the ghetto, which is hilarious, because that is still my favourite apartment I've ever had. We walked out into the front and enjoyed a coffee at my little cafe/tea place.

That night eating Mexican I noted how much the city had even changed in the year I was there. It was a top speed transition year. Mexican food, Chinese, burgers, brunch places, different beers, malls, all built up from nothing.
Old Duff Bar

The next day, after a coffee and a shopping run to search for pants that fit and to stock up on Chimay to take back to Montenegro, we headed for some brunch and met some teachers from an IB school. As we sat and talked we ordered drink after drink, and I reminisced about how typical it was for a Sunday in Albania. We left one bar and headed to the next, Duff (which has a new location) that I had discovered with the boys a few short weeks before I left. I entered and immediately spotted the packer helmet that originally drew us into the place. I had my usual flavoured mojito and beer. The final stop for the evening was Brauhaus for a Red ale. This place was insanely empty in comparison to it's usual evening hubbub.
New Duff Bar








I was surprised as we walked home and found street after street shut off. After asking the police officer he told us it was a weekly bike celebration. It included live music, which was, of course, blaring loudly over the call to prayer. 

The next morning I woke up and after my friend cancelled our coffee date for personal reasons I opted to head out for a walk in my old neighborhood. I began at the thrift store on Zogu I Zi, where I did most of my shopping, followed by a quick walk past the Umbrellas (now umbrellaless) where I did my happy hour drinking and quofte eating. I checked for the little old lady with red hair, but didn't see her. 

Then a quick turn down the alley that became our true stomping grounds. I walked past the petulla place and contemplated stopping, but I knew 8am was too late for the good warm petulla.

Then onto New Grocery store, booming with customers, past dusty bin lady, and watermelon lady (no longer there) on to downstairs dude, and the entrance to the apartments. Then eventually I had to do a double take, because I just couldn't find the Art Studio anywhere. Turns out it's gone. A former art gallery made into tailor shop.

At this point I began to feel it. The way life transitions and evolves. I walked past Jimmy's, now expanded, with more chairs and tables. Memories just kept flooding my mind. Like the time we watched the football match on the large screen at the bar on the corner, or taking pictures in front of Villa 31 my last night there. As I reached the place, our place, and saw what it had become I thought how perfect of a symbol it was for what my life became when I left.

Once a tree with a hole, but with importance and meaning, I moved on to Indonesia and became a worthless square of trash. And this is the point where I really had to hold my shit together, because I really do wonder who I would be if I had stayed.

I don't regret leaving. Moving to Indonesia had a major role in my life, and I needed that, to get where I am now. And where I am is so happy and amazing.

Tirana was meant to be my home for a few years, but it became so much more than a "home".  I found myself while wandering the streets, dancing in the alleys, day drinking at the bars, eating the street food. I found myself in the way I was thrown drastically into situations that made me uncomfortable and forced me to see that the world was so much more than I had experienced. Tirana is where my story began and where my dreams started to grow into something larger than life.

So I said goodbye for a second time. This time a little easier because I am learning to trust the world, and the opportunities it gives me.  I never intended to return, but I am so glad I had this chance.
rooftop drinks

Thursday, May 5, 2016

Musings from Slovenia

28/4/16 (Bled) 
This place reminds me of the train from Berlin to Munich, and that feeling I got when I just wanted to get out and explore. It also feels slightly like being up north along the lakes back home. Pretty sure I could just stay here forever, and hike everyday. Although right now I lost my phone, have a migraine from not eating anything healthy, and just want my bed.

29/4/16 (Bled)
I spent the morning wandering around the Lake, and realizing how much I rely on my phone on a consistent basis. For a little while I considered just not purchasing a new one. What a release that would be. But then I started thinking about how it connects me to the people I love, and it's usefulness. Especially when traveling. I rely on it so much for maps, passwords, alarms, tracking my spending ect. But I am glad for the opportunity to reflect on this portion of my life. I'm going to start setting aside more technology free hours in my life. Sans phone, sans music, sans computer.
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I've always had my own goals and dreams. There have been times when they have seemed less important and have begun to merge with someone else. This is different.

It is strange when your dreams used to be so solid and fixed and suddenly they become so fluid and moveable. The only part of my dreams that matters now is who they are with.

30/4/16 (Bled)
Every time I take trips like this I leave a little piece of my heart in these places. It is so easy to fall in love with a place when you are there for such a short period of time. Hiking in Bled made me realize I seriously need to risk myself a little bit more in Montenegro. Splurge on a car some weekends and just find places nearby to explore and hike.
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(Ljubljana)
These are the moments I live for. This pure culture. Hiking up a hill to feast on cevapi while listening to some speeches by the Mayor which I will never understand. Grabbing a beer to stand by a fire in the middle of the woods. Dancing to a local band singing in a slavic language, only able to understand the lyrics because of the body language.

31/4 (Ljublijana)
I'll say it again: Nothing I love more than sitting in a city center, people watching while I sip a beer or coffee.
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There are so many interesting cultures to study, and not all of them are obvious and in your face. You may have to dig deeper to see the beauty of it.

1/5 (Ljubljana)
Some days, travel can just seem daunting and difficult. But then you finally get to where you are going and it all becomes worthwhile.

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Sitting in a bar drinking an unfiltered IPA and Inn Town by Ryan Adams comes on. These moments take me home even when I am so far away from there.